So you have married an Indori, or you have been transferred to Indore. You better have a survival guide with you. When in Indore… that’s right! Do just as the Indoris do.
- I can’t stress more. Sev pohe is the basic necessity in Indore which comes before roti, kapda, aur makaan.
- Jalebi on an empty stomach is one of the tenets of Indori living.
- When you go out on the streets and see food carts selling Fariyali Sabudana Khichadi… don’t scoff. It is actually one of the best khichadis you will ever have, and no matter what you do, you will never be able to replicate that taste elsewhere.
- Michchar is the right way to pronounce ‘mixture’, which is a savory and sweet chivda.
- Whether you visit the Khajrana Ganesh or not, you must visit Ganesh namkeen bhandaar in Bada Sarafa. They have butterscotch sev, whether you believe it or not! But don’t be in a hurry. He will let you taste as many namkeens as you want to taste, and he will tell you the story behind how each was invented. He will also tell you, “Bhiya apne yhaa’n sev ki bhot verayati (variety) he, par chaalis din mein badal dete hein bhiya!”
- There are some things which you can’t miss eating in Indore.
- Vijay Chaatwale ka khobra patties (they also have a mean shikanji!),
- Garaadu with jeeravan
- bhutte ka kees,
- chhole tikki and gulab jamun in the street shops of Saraafa,
- Joshi ka dahiwada,
- bake samosa, and if you ask them to “bana ke do” they will break it open, add chopped onions, sev (of course!) jeeravan and tomato sauce. Some combination that!
- laal baalti ki kachori,
- Parshwanath ka paan,
- Ram babu ke paraanthe,
- Aalu ki kachori from Anand Bazar… I am going on and on, aren’t I? There is more…
- You must have the best kulfi ever at Mhow wale ki kulfi
- Ghamandi ki Lassi
- and coffee at Buddy’s cafe on MG Road.
- And something that everyone has forgotten, Shahi Samosa that you can find at Rajwada.
- When you go to Joshi’s dukaan at Saraafa, be sure to tell him that you are not originally from Indore. Then sit back and enjoy the show. It will be like nothing you’ve ever seen, “Mere Maharaaj!”
- Never forget to eat Daal-baati/daal-baafle or your stay in Indore will be questioned.
- Gajak, a sweet made from jaggery and sesame seeds. I usually have to scare my husband with my killer eyes in order to ration our gajak import from Indore to 2 kgs.
- Ice-cream at Monica Galaxy. I didn’t find anything extraordinary here, but you are not allowed to say that in Indore.
Learn to listen without commenting
- That Lata Mangeshkar is originally from Indore.
- That Salman Khan was born in Indore
- That Salim Khan is originally from Indore (and as an afterthought, that Javed Akhtar is from Bhopal, and hence the character in Sholay of Soorma Bhopali!) I know… don’t ask! Just listen 😉
- That Kishore Kumar was from Khandwa
- Pooja Batra, Johnny Walker and Vijayendra Ghatge are all from Indore (You might be shown Vijayendra Ghatge’s house too if you are anywhere near Palasia)
- Rahul Dravid was born in Indore! Yeah, whaddya know!
- That 98.3 Radio Mirchi Indore was supposed to be the first private FM radio station in India, but by 2 days it missed the title and (that is why) it is the best FM radio station!
- That the gates of the revered Lalbaug palace are the exact replica of those of Buckingham palace! Each and every Indori will tell you that.
- O Bhiyao!
- Aa riyaau’n!
- Kya kantaap maal he bawa!
- Chamka diya usko mene to!
- Chankat kha ek sankat mein ana he kya?
- Farjiwada/sustiwada macha rakha hai. maddhiwada chal riya he.
- batti deraa tha be wo! me bhi lapet riya tha.
- ka-jan kya ke riya tha wo ebla.
- bhera gaya hai kya?
- ek jago tikatai ni
- thiye pe mil.
- bhiya ko pratham nagaragaman par hardik-hardik-haaaaarrrrdik swagat (saying ‘hardik’ just once or twice is not allowed)
- masti ni sama ri he unme to.
- Hau! (meaning yes!)
- Abbe iski baara ki dher!
- kai dare kya apan kisi se?
- or pelwan, kesa chal riya he?
- Don’t be surprised if a friend calls you ‘Aur Maalik!’
- Bhaai ko!
- Bhiya Raaooom!
- Bhiya zara pachas pachas giraam saraklo! (in a tempo which runs in Ujjain now)
- Lo kallo baat!
- Joote, chappal, Sendil nikaaldo bhiya
- gyan toh mati ba’nto yha’n.
Weird sounding names of places
- Labriya Bheru
- Chhipa Bakhal
- Koyla Bakhal
- Gram Baroli
- Jabran Colony
- Tejpur Gadbadi
- Gadbadi pul
- Semaliya Chau (O Taau, jaariyaoo’n Semaliya Chau!)
- Matana Bujurg (Old people, don’t come?)
- Bicholi Mardana
- Bicholi Hapsi
- Dhakkanwala Kuaa’n (This is where Hans travels buses to Indore stop)
- For clothes – Cloth Market, Rajwada, Kothari Market
- For Expensive sarees, handloom – Mrignayani emporium
- Books – Sunday Market at Khajoori Bajar
- Sabzi mandi – Itwaria bajar
- For knick knacks, artificial jewelery, craft items, bindis, handbags, etc. visit Aada Bazaar.
- For shopping branded clothes, you have the Treasure Island Mall, and C21 Mall
Ask any Indori where to go and he will give you a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig list of places to see in and around Indore.
- Lalbaug Palace (Must see!)
- Rajwada (Although I love shopping around Rajwada more than going within the palace itself)
- Bada Ganpati
- Khajrana Ganpati
- Annapoorna temple
- Kaanch Mandir
- Bijasen Mata temple
- Navgraha Mandir
- Town hall (Town Haal!)
- Krishnapura ki Chhatri
- Meghdoot Garden
- Central Museum
- Vaishnodevi temple (made like a replica of the original temple, it’s beautiful!)
- Shell city, Mayank blue water parks
And around Indore
- Omkareshwar. Totally raw and unpretentious. I didn’t dip in the Narmada though. Sorry.
- Mahankaleshwar (in Ujjain) All commercialized. Yet, beautiful.
- Fort Amla near Badnagar
- Pachmarhi (I have yet to go here! Seven years married to an Indori and never been to Pachmarhi. Sad life, I know 😦
- Teencha Falls (Teencha Faal!) Too bad the last time I went there, there was no water to fall 😦
- Pataal Paani
- Maheshwar (Yup, where you get Maheshwari Sarees. The temple and the river are really beautiful and have been featured in a recent Nike ad)
- Choral Dam
- Nakhrali Dhaani
- Tafreeh Garden (I had good fun hanging like a monkey on some of the games here. I looked like a monkey too :P)
Oh and festivals!
What a way Holi is celebrated in Indore. I remember being pregnant with my first child, we had been to Indore in the month of March so we could attend the Holi festival and have my godbharai as well. My husband and my brother went out to play holi and had bhaang. The works, Thandaai, kulfi, mithai… Then they had sweet chai and walked around in the March sun for a good hour or so. By the time they came back home, they were gone… solid, gone! My brother couldn’t find things that were right there in front of him. And my husband, he couldn’t stop laughing. Even when I was pissed angry, he laughed harder!
On the day of Rangpanchami, Gair is celebrated in Indore. It’s almost as if the whole city gets drenched in Holi ka Nasha. A huge procession comes out on the road and tonnes of litres of water is splashed about everywhere. You can’t be in Indore around Holi and miss this.
Anant Chaudas is the tenth day of Ganesh chaturthi. Ganpati ki Jhaa’nki is a procession of Ganeshji which used to be a forte of mill workers. It is worth watching.
Ravan dahan during dassehra is celebrated amidst a pomp and festivities. You should see the zeal of the people as they celebrate this among fireworks.
Navratri. The best garba was played earlier in Khatipura and Saket. Now a lot of places and gardens host beautiful garba nights.
Ahilya Utsav. Celebrates the death anniversary of Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar. I love her statue at Rajwada. Proud to have a statue here in Thane as well! Little things that give us joy, like the feeling of having a little bit of Indore in Thane 🙂
I could go on and on. My post, though long, still doesn’t say anything about the travel system in Indore. Indore City bus is new and swank, but you can’t forget the Nagar Seva (Yamdoot seva) that is now obsolete. The snout-nosed tempos that you don’t find in Indore anymore. You can find them in Ujjain though. And the rickshaws, never forget to bargain with a rickshaw driver, or they will fleece you.
Despite my best efforts, I am sure I must have missed many things. It was unintentional.
There might be things I don’t even know. Please feel free to enlighten me. I would love to hear your ‘Indore stories’ too!
- How do you know you married an Indori? (mindbrewblog.wordpress.com)